The cod is firm, white and flaky, delivered in three pieces coated in crunchy, well-browned bread crumbs. Who knew one of the city’s best fish fries is in a polished little breakfast-and-lunch spot in Silver City? One that serves American and Mexican brunch favorites? I guess we all do, now. They're served with a pile of thin, golden, skin-on fries, a dab of oil-and-vinegar coleslaw that's mixed with a touch of green apple, and very good remoulade-like tartar sauce that the kitchen seasons with dill.Ĭost: $13, or $15 for three pieces. The basket holds two well-seasoned, meaty pieces of cod, fried expertly in a light, crisp batter made with the brewer's Guitar City Gold lager. Head to a table with your drink, maybe catch some sports on the TVs, and an employee will bring you your meal. On Fridays, that means fish fry.Ĭustomers order food and beer at the bar. Besides growing to twice the room for customers (some 250 of them), the brewery's taproom has expanded its menu well beyond the creative, hand-tossed pizzas it started with. I still call it the new taproom, even though Raised Grain moved to its larger space in a business park more than a year ago. Here are my favorites from the past few months - some of them newer fish fries, and others just new to me. The fish fry around the Milwaukee area is going through changes, but there still are ones to enjoy. That might be a question of access, since fewer bakeries are making rye bread (Milwaukee's Miller Baking, for example, now makes only pretzel rolls). French fries, I hope, will be freshly fried and crisp.Īs rare as lake perch these days is another traditional piece of the fish fry puzzle: a slice of good rye, preferably salted. If you're a restaurant owner thinking of adding potatoes to regular pancake mix, please don't. The best are thin, crisp at the edges and in the lightest of batters, just egg and flour and grated onion, with potatoes grated not too coarsely at the restaurant. Potato pancakes are likely to stray from the ideal. How are the coleslaw and tartar sauce? Did the restaurant make its own, and are they delicious? I came across a lot of coleslaw this year that could have used some tang from vinegar or even just a simple dash of salt. Those are the most important signposts of a fish fry worth eating, but the rest of the meal can set apart one dinner from the others. Meanwhile, resigned to seeing and eating not-your-usual perch, my concerns turned to what I usually look for in a fish fry: Is the fish well-fried and crisp? Or is it soggy and shedding its batter or breading? Is the quality of the fish itself good? Is the batter too heavy? If you're a particular and die-hard yellow-perch partisan, you'll want to confirm before ordering what kind of perch it is to avoid disappointment. Lake perch, it turns out, has had a rough go of it in the past year or so, and the domestic catch was down, industry veterans said. This year, I noticed perch seemed to be offered as an option at fewer bars and restaurants than in years past, and when it was on the menu, the chances were good it was ocean perch, instead of the more common lake perch, or European lake perch, a larger fish with a flavor different from what Wisconsinites are used to. There's been a shift in the Friday fish fry.
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